Naqsh-e-Gul

Naqsh-e-Gul — the pattern of the flower — is the carved and worked-gold line: kadas, bangle stacks, cuffs, an armlet, an anklet, toe rings and a hand harness. There are almost no stones here. The interest comes from the metal itself: floral carving, paisley engraving, filigree jaali panels, twisted rope, hammered surfaces and beaded borders.

Carving is done by hand after casting. On the broad kada that means cutting a floral naqsh into the surface and then polishing back the raised areas so the pattern holds shadow; on the leaf cuff it means a matte field with a single carved stem running the full length. Filigree pieces are pierced rather than moulded, which is why the openable jaali kada stays light for its width. Meenakari bangles have enamel fired into recessed cells, so the colour sits level with the gold instead of on top of it.

Metal is 18K, 21K and 22K depending on the piece, with weights from about 5 grams for the toe rings to nearly 37 grams for the carved kada. Bangles are sold in standard sizes measured across the inside diameter — measure the widest part of your hand with the thumb tucked in, and if you fall between sizes take the larger, because a carved bangle cannot be stretched afterwards without damaging the pattern. The hinged kada and the open cuffs are the most forgiving if you are unsure.

Worked gold shows fingerprints less than a plain polish but collects dust in the carving. A soft dry brush is enough; avoid polishing cloths on matte or antique finishes, as they will shine the recesses and flatten the design.

Prices are in US dollars. Each piece is hallmarked, weighed and certificated, and ships insured and tracked.